Alot has changed in the Mediterranean city of Antalya since Freya Stark, doyen of twentieth century travel writers, described the view across its bay in the 1950's. An important port under the Romans and the Medieval Seljuk Turks, by the time Freya arrived Antalya was small and down at heel, squeezed inside its crumbling walls. Now it's the tourist hub of Turkey's Mediterranean coast, a modern, sprawling city with nearly a million people.
Antalya's heart is the old walled city, known as Kaleici, where a warren of alleyways and Ottoman houses tumble down a break in the cliffs to the yacht harbour. This atmospheric quarter has dozens of beautifully restored mansions now serving as pensions and hotels. Others have been turned into bars and clubs, many with shady gardens or rooftop terraces with wonderful panoramas.
Kaleici also has most of the city's historic buildings, conveniently close for visiting on foot. Beyond the old walls, a few kilometres to the west, is the excellent Archaeological Museum, and beyond it the long curve of Konyaalti beach, stretching to the feet of the dramatic Beydaglari mountains.
The maze that is Kaleici (which literally means "within the walls") is best explored on foot. Don't worry about getting lost. Head up from the harbour and you'll be funnelled towards the Kalekapisi (castle gate), overlooked by an imposing clock tower. Bustling with office workers, shoppers and tourists by day, in the early hours the tower is a magnet for late night revellers, drawn by the delights of grumpy Mustafa's, who cooks delicious kofte (meatballs) from a tiny handcart. Nearby is the Yivli Minare, or grooved minaret, built by the medieval Selcuk Turks and popular these days with photographers. The minaret is the city's emblem, also forming part of the crest of the local football team, Antalyaspor.
